Sylvia Beach and Ulysses

Sylvia Beach met James Joyce in the summer of 1920 at a party at French poet André Spires home. When she and Adrienne arrived they were told James Joyce was there. Sylvia worshipped the Irish writer and loved his work and was instantly terrified.

Her friend Ezra Pound brought Joyce to the party, so she mustered up the courage and went to say hi. Over dinner she told him about her bookshop on Rue de Dupuytren, Joyce laughed at the name but said he would pay it a visit.

The very next day the author walked through her door, swinging his cane in dirty tennis shoes. “Joyce was always a bit shabby” Sylvia said, “but his manner was so distinguished that one scarcely noticed what he had on”. After that first day Joyce would be found just about every day sitting in the window at a small table writing. His mail was sent there, as many of the expats did and days were spent frustrated at his lack of a publisher for Ulysses.

Pieces of it would appear in the Little Review. As each issue was released the authorities in the US confiscated them and declared it was banned.

Distraught at the outcome of his book Sylvia offered to publish it. It was not an easy task and cost her a ton of money. She almost lost everything taking on the publishing of Ulysses. Joyce wanted to change every edition as it was published.

Still banned in the US, Sylvia shared her frustration to Hemingway. “Give me 24 hours” he said. The next day he had a solution. He would ship books to a friend in Canada who would smuggle them in a few copies at a time down his pants into NYC via the ferry.

Thanks to Hem Ulysees arrived in the US. Today the loyal followers celebrate Bloomsday all over the world, the day the entire book took place, June 16, 1904, all thanks to Sylvia and Hemingway

For more about Sylvia, listen to the episode we did about this amazing, spitfire of a lady here.

Lisa di Antonio Gheradini Giocondo, aka Mona Lisa

She is one of the most famous paintings in the world. The first lady of the Louvre has become a mythical creature far past the painting.  However, did you know there was an entire story of the woman before she hung on the walls of the kings? 

Lisa di Antonio Gherardini was born in Florence on June 15, 1479 to a noble landowning Tuscan family. Not far from The Palazzo Pitti where the Medici family lived was the home of Antonmaria Gherardini and Lucrezia del Caccia. The family lived on the corner of the via Maggio and via Squazza when Lisa was born and then moved to the other side of the river in 1494. Near Santa Croce between via del Pepi and via Ghibellina they discovered their new neighbors, the Giocondo’s. 

On March 5, 1495, at 15 years old, Lisa married the son of her neighbors,  Francesco del Giocondo. Francesco was from a rich family that made their money in the silk business, A widow, a father  and fourteen years older than Lisa who also had a somewhat famous family as a neighbor. Living just a few doors down from Ser Piero da Vinci, the father of Leonardo. 

 A year later they welcomed their first child, Piero, quickly followed by Piera in 1497, Camilla in 1499, Marietta in 1500, Andrea in 1502 and finally Giocondo in 1507. Sadly only two survived past adolescents. 

Francesco became a civil servant and was elected to one esteemed post after another from 1499 to 1512. Once thought to be working for the exiled Medici family he was tossed into prison until the Medici’s returned and bailed him out.  Contracting the plague in 1539 Francesco died and Lisa left Florence to live with her daughter in the Sant’Orsola convent where she died July 15, 1542. 

In 1502, Francesco commissioned Leonardo da Vinci to paint a portrait of his wife. Leonardo was at the height of his fame at the moment after just completing the Last Supper but was also in need of money so accepted the job. Having just given birth to her son Andrea she sat for the portrait, considered quite large at the time for its subject matter. 

She never saw the unfinished painting that Francesco had never paid for after he was sent to jail. Leonardo liked to “meditate” on his paintings, work a little on a painting then take a break to ponder what he would do next. So it wasn’t out of the norm that the painting of Lisa wasn’t finished. In 1508 he carried the painting with him to Milan, then onto Rome in 1513. 

On October 13, 1515 Francois I was in Bologna  for a meeting with Pope Leo X  that Leonardo was also in attendance. Francois already knew of the master and wanted him to create a mechanical elephant for him. He offered his chateau in the Loire to Leonardo but at the time Leonardo declined. On March 17, 1516 Julien de Medici died, it was his last protection and funding he had and he decided to take the French king up on his offer. 

A few months later he made his way to France on a donkey with his unfinished canvas in hand including the Mona Lisa. In his new home, Leonardo was named the first painter of the king as well as engineer and architect but also the party planner to the king. Yes, Leonardo was an event planner. As a recovering event planner I can say his ability to do many things at once came in handy, but the fact he took 20 years to finish a painting I have my doubts on how those parties turned out. 

Leonardo was old, his arm was partially parilized and he spent more time instructing students then painting on his own in his final years. On October 10, 1517 he met with the cardinal d’Aragon at the Clos Lucé and presented him with a few paintings including the lovely lady of Florence. On April 23, 1519, in poor health he had his will drawn up. The paintings he had with him had been given to or purchased by Francois I upon his death.

The basis of that royal collection of Francois I would become the Musée du Louvre. The Louvre owns 6 of the paintings of Da Vinci, more than any country or museum, and Italy is still mad about that. She stayed in the company of the kings and emperors until 1793 when the Louvre was opened to the public. 

Known in Italy as  La Gioconda, and France as La Joconde, her English name, Mona Lisa comes from a shortened version of Madonna, meaning my lady. Madame Lisa or Lady Lisa, either way she has become the most captivating face and smile in the world. As for that smile, Gioconda in Italian, means playful or happy. So the next time you hear the argument if that is a smile or not, you can say, OUI! 

Jeanne d'Albert, the Nemesis of Catherine de Medici

Jeanne d’Albret, is one of the 20 ladies of the Jardin du Luxembourg. You may pass right by her and not even know what a strong woman and ahead of her time she was. Jeanne d’Albret was born in 1528 to Henri II d’Albret, king of Navarre. At a very young age her father wanted her to marry the son of Charles V uniting them with Spain, but her uncle, King Francois I disagreed. Taking her away from her parents when she was 10, but would also suggest a marriage.

On June 9, 1541 at just 12 years old she was to marry Guillume, the Duke of Cleves. This time she refused up until the day of the wedding when she had to be literally pushed down the aisle. She didn’t give up the fight and refused to consummate the marriage. After four years she finally was granted an annulment by Pope Paul III in 1545.

In October 1548 after her uncle had died she was able to marry the man she wanted to, Antoine de Bourbon. After her father died in 1555 she and her husband took the throne of Navarre.

In 1553, she would have a son, Henri III, future king of Navarre and later known as Henri IV, king of France. After 5 children she would kick her husband out after she learned he had a son with another woman. She was really ahead of her time!

Growing up as Cathoic she later converted to Protestantism, by 1568 she became the head of the Protestant movement. As the reign of the Valois was coming to an end, she persuaded Catherine de Medici to unite her daughter Marguerite and Henri III. Jeanne had to promise that she wouldn’t convert her. Catherine said the wedding must occur on August 18, 1572, but Jeanne wouldn’t live to see it.

The legend is that Catherine asked her perfumer to make a pair of gloves for Jeanne. Catherine is known to dabble in the dark arts, and the story goes that the gloves were poisoned and killed Jeanne.

She died of tuberculosis on June 9, 1572

Catherine would take a vital role in the St Bartholomew’s Day Massacre, killing thousands of protestants just days after the wedding. Jeanne stands on the eastern side of the upper terrace of the Luxembourg, designed by Jean Louis Brian in 1843.

The Frenchest of French Kisses

On this date in 1950, Life magazine published what would become one of the most iconic photos of Paris. Le baiser de l'hôtel de ville, by Robert Doisneau.

I love this photo, but more for what is around the couple then the couple themselves. The essence of Paris comes so clearly across in this piece. Taken in front of the Hôtel de Ville in the 4th, the people walking by without even a glance toward the couple in a close embrace is what is so very Parisian. It is not uncommon to see this exact scene on one of the many picturesque bridges, in front of the Eiffel Tower or on a sidewalk terrace, it is as common to see as a Frenchman walking down the street with a baguette.

It is the romance of Paris that oozes out of everything that is so easy to be whisked away into, and there is nothing wrong with that at all. But back to this photo and where I will squash your romantic dreams of what looks like such a candid moment. By 1950 Robert Doiseneu had been documenting the streets of Paris for a few years after working for Vogue as a fashion photographer. He found his inspiration in the everyday life of Parisians and it was on one of these days he saw a couple kissing. For more than 40 years it was a great mystery who the young couple were, but in 1992 they were revealed. Jacques Carteaud and Françoise Bornet were dating and walking through Paris kissing away when Doisneau caught a glimpse of them. In 2005 Françoise said that, "He told us we were charming, and asked if we could kiss again for the camera. We didn't mind. We were used to kissing. We were doing it all the time then, it was delicious. Monsieur Doisneau was adorable, very low key, very relaxed."

So he took them to a few famous spots in Paris to recreate their kiss, but it was in front of the Hôtel de Ville that they struck gold and the iconic photo was created. When you are in Paris, go to this same spot and at the café across the square stand across from the "C" and kiss away and you can make your own version. I can promise you it is not hard to be swept away in the romance of Paris and you too can find out exactly why they call them French Kisses

The Disappearing Watteau from the Louvre

We all know about the theft of the Mona Lisa from the Musée du Louvre, but there was in fact another painting that was snatched right off the wall. On June 11, 1939 Antoine Watteau’s painting L’Indifferent was quickly cut from its wires and left in the middle of the day from the full room dedicated to Dr. Louis La Caze collection. To make matters worse, they didn’t notice for a few days. Director of the Louvre, Henri Verne was let go the next day, unable to survive the embarrassment of the painting leaving in the middle of the day. The guard later said that a strange amount of people asked him questions about another painting on the other side of the room diverting his attention.

The painting by Watteau was rather small compared to his other paintings. Just 8x10 inches and painted on wood. It depicts a young man in light blue with a red cloak and his arms outstretched. In his hand was a diabolo toy, we will get to why that is now gone. Painted in 1716, it arrived at the Louvre in 1869 and hung there for 80 years.

On August 14 the media was alerted that something “sensational” was going to happen at the courthouse. When the tall lean Serge Claude Bougosslavsky walked in and declared that it was he that stole the painting they all gasped. Serge basking in the limelight went on to tell them that he went to the Louvre everyday for 15 days before he stole it. Each day lifting the painting and twisting the wire from which it hung.

On June 11, he cut the wire, put it under his coat and walked right out the door. The reason why he took it? Well that was because he felt it needed to be restored from errors that occurred in earlier restorations. In a small rental apartment on the Rue Saint Honoré where he “restored” the painting by washing it to bring out the colors and removing the diabolo which he felt wasn’t in the style of Watteau.

Why did he decide to return it? He felt the national police had enough to deal with the onset of WWII. Thirteen days later Watteau’s “retouched” L’Indifferent and the art of the Louvre was packed up and moved to the Loire valley before the Germans arrived in Paris.

World Gin Day and a Favorite

On this world gin day, let’s revisit my favorite.

Behold the Soixante Quinze, otherwise known as the French 75, my very favorite cocktail, after all it has Champagne in it. The cocktail dates back to 1915 when it was first created at Harry’s New York Bar in Paris during World War I.

Harry’s New York Bar, steps away from the Ritz on “Sank Roo Doe Noo'' was opened on Thanksgiving Day in 1911 by American Jockey Tod Sloan. He took his New York bar apart piece by piece and shipped it to Paris. Sloan hired Scotish barman Harry MacElhone, who would run the bar and come up with many iconic cocktails we know today. Other than the French 75, the Monkey Gland, the Sidecar and the Bucket of Blood, later to be known as the Bloody Mary and many more.

In 1923 Harry would purchase the business, add his name to the marquee and greet everyone from Rita Hayworth to Hemingway. In 1928 George Gershwin composed An American in Paris in the piano room that sits downstairs.Now 119 years later, the walls are still covered with vintage felt pennants from American colleges and you can even get a tasty hot dog.

The French 75, was first created using gin, lemon juice, simple syrup and topped with Champagne was named for the French 75mm gun used in World War I. Harry said it gave just as big of a punch, Other variations are made with brandy, but the gin is prefered. The drink is very simple to make, gather your French gin and Champagne and let's get to it. You can of course use other substandard gin, but it's even better in your heart when it is French gin. Citadelle French gin, the first botanical gin of France was first created in 1996 and filled with 19 aromatics. It’s beautiful blue bottle also looks really nice on your bar.

Thirsty yet? Here we go,

2 oz Citadelle Gin

1 oz fresh lemon juice

1 oz simple syrup

Shake with ice to chill, strain into a glass and top with Champagne.

You can serve it in a flute, coupe or even a wine glass with a few ice cubes and a lemon twist, whichever you like.

75 is also the number of Paris, so just another reason to love this fresh and tasty cocktail.

Happy Rosé Day

There seems to be a “holiday” for everything now and some are quite silly. However, today there are TWO that are pretty great. 

First it is the National Rosé Day, that lovely light pink elixir that flows like water all over France and now throughout the corners of the world. It dates back to Ancient Greece when they would dilute the red wine and today winemakers can’t keep up with production. The wine of summer which is as official as this holiday just makes those long summer days even better and if you can have it on the banks of the Seine then you are really doing it right. 

It is also important to match your wine to your dress and shoes, another unofficial rule.  

PS. These will be making the move. 

Happy Rosé Day and stay tuned for the other special holiday today and maybe sober it up mid day for that one. 

santé! 

Gustave Courbet, the Bad Boy of the 19th Century Art World

Gustave Courbet, the realist artist behind the Origin of the World and two stunning large scale paintings in the Orsay was born on this day in 1819.

Born to wealthy landowners in Ornans, he found his artistic talent at an early age. His first painting was a self portrait, today in the Carnavalet. Like many artists he would spend his days in the Louvre copying the masters. Preferring the Dutch, Spanish and Venetian paintings he was going to stand out from the other painters from early on.

Rejected over and over from the Salon for over ten years, he would keep marching to his own tune.

After yet another rejection, with the funding of Alfred Bruyas he built his own pavilion for the 1855 Universal Exhibition displaying more than 40 paintings.

In 1870 he was appointed President of the General Surveillance of French Museums. With a team of people they protected the museums and art as the Prussians neared Paris. In his new role he expressed his displeasure of the Napoleon statue on the top of the Vendome Column. He felt it “held no artistic value and represented the past imperial dynasty and its ideas of war”. As a member of the Commune he requested it be removed, the motion wasn’t adopted, but Courbet would take the matter into his own hands.

Scheduled for May 5, Napoleon's birthday but delayed until May 16, a group of men with ropes tied it to the bronze emperor and gave it a few good pulls. Falling to the ground covered with sand it broke in two and sent clay and dust darkening the sky. Courbet stood back and watched. He wanted it taken down, but not destroyed but it wouldn’t matter. Arrested and put on trial he would be convicted and sentenced to 6 months in prison. Once released only few in the art world accepted him and the salon rejected him again. With fellow artists they created their own, the Salon des Refuses in 1873. That same year President Mac Mahon passed a law that Courbet should pay for the new Column. To pay the 320,000 francs his paintings were taken and sold and he slipped into financial ruin.

Victor Baltard, the designer of Paris

In the “Men who Designed Paris” series, we take a look at Victor Baltard. Gustave Eiffel is known for his iron work but there were a few others that came before him.

Born on June 9, 1805, his most notable creation began in the mid 1840’s. While the structures around Les Halles were going up in classic stone structures, it all came to a halt when Napoleon had returned from London after viewing the new lighter metal structures. Napoleon asked Baltard to design something that he had already been thinking about for more than ten years. Overnight Baltard, sketched out a structure that would be built with cast iron, iron, glass and brick, in the much envied home on the corner of Place de Furstemberg and Rue de l’Abbaye.

It would take until 1854 for the building to begin but would finish somewhat quickly with the first few pavilions completed in 1857. In his design instead of using tie-bolts he designed corner brackets that were light and elegant. Sadly Les Halles would later be destroyed but one pavilion can be seen outside of Paris in Nogent-sur-Marne. Closer into Paris you can get an idea of what they looked like at the former cattle market at Villette. Today it is Les Halles de la Villette where large exhibitions are held. The same pretty corner brackets can be found. Two other markets in Paris were created by Victor that still stand today, the Marché Secrétan and the Marché La Chapelle.

When Baltard was a child he attended the Calvinist Temple du Marais with another young man that would leave a mark on Paris, Georges-Eugene Haussmann. When Haussmann began to redesign Paris he asked his old friend to help him out. Promoted to Architect of the Hotel de Ville & churches and then head of the architecture department of the city. As the architect of the churches he oversaw the repair, restoration and maintenance of some of the most beloved churches in Paris.

Saint Germain l’Auxerrois, Saint Eustache, Saint Etienne de Mont, Saint Germain des Prés, Saint Séverin and Saint Paul Saint Louis all benefited from the work of the artist architect. One church would really benefit from his talent, Saint Augustin.

Marie Antoinette's takes Paris

Marie Antoinette arrived at the court of Versailles in May 1770. The young Austrian archduchess left her family and Vienna behind for the life of the Dauphine and future queen of France. For three years she only left Versailles to go to Château de Saint-Cloud, but longed to spend a day in the city of love. Very close with Louis XV who adored her was an easy target and after constant urging she finally wore him down. The royal family couldn’t just pop into Paris, it had to be organized and they needed to arrive with great fanfare on June 8, 1773.

The people of Paris hadn’t seen the Austrian beauty yet outside of portraits in pamphlets. Paris was abuzz with the news and couldn’t wait for her arrival. However, Marie Antoinette could hardly stand it and couldn’t wait to get there. A few days before she was able to convince her husband, Louis XVI and his brother that they sneak out of Versailles and go to a masked ball at the Paris Opera.

The party loving Marie loved it, Louis XVI would rather be at home playing with locks but he was still a good sport. It was at this party that she would meet a handsome Swedish count Axel von Fersen, the man who would become theThe people of Paris hadn’t seen the Austrian beauty yet outside of portraits in pamphlets. Paris was abuzz with the news and couldn’t wait for her arrival. However, Marie Antoinette could hardly stand it and couldn’t wait to get there. A few days before she was able to convince her husband, Louis XVI and his brother that they sneak out of Versailles and go to a masked ball at the Paris Opera.

The party loving Marie loved it, Louis XVI would rather be at home playing with locks but he was still a good sport. It was at this party that she would meet a handsome Swedish count Axel von Fersen, the man who would become the love of her life and would try to save her from her final demise. love of her life and would try to save her from her final demise.

She would dance the night away until the wee hours arriving back to Versailles just in time for them to sneak into mass. The king was never the wiser. On June 8, as the royal carriages arrived onto the Parisian streets the cheering crowd for the Joyeuse Entrée. It was quite the reception for the dauphine who loved every second of it. Cries of Vive le Dauphine filled the streets. Louis Hercule de Cossé, duc de Brissac and military governor of Paris greeted them upon their arrival. Arriving at the Palais des Tuileries to a crowd of thousands of people, the young couple stood on the balcony. Meeting Marie-Antoinette and Louis XVI he reportedly said “Madame, they are 200,000 of your lovers”. Sixteen years later, they would call her again to a balcony, this time wanting her death.

*the opera they attended has burnt down, but the Palais Garnier is still beautiful to imagine.

78 Years Ago Today

78 years ago today allied forces landed on the beaches of Normandy and would begin the drive of German forces out of France and given the name Operation Overlord.

Débarquement de Normandie as it is referred to in France, D-Day to many others around the world. General and future President Eisenhower consulted the weather and tides charts and picked the day that would be the best for landing on the coast. The greatest generation that morning took the beach by water and air, many of them never to step off the sand to return home. More than 125,000 American, British and Canadian soldiers were involved in the operation that began at midnight when they parachuted in and to the beach at dawn. The causalities were high, for all the allies, the highest numbers at Omaha beach.

My grandfather fought in WWII, arriving after D-Day in August 1944 and serving as a co-pilot in the Air Force flying B24’s. Stationed in Attlebridge England they would fly over the North of France and into Germany. It was something he never really talked about and a part of his life I have put together through his photos, notebooks of mission and his letters.

In 1983, my grandparents visited Normandy and the American cemetery at Colleville-sur-Mer. Located on a former battlefield the cemetery is covered with 9,388 white crosses that face west to the United States.

The memorial colonnade built in 1956, made of limestone from Burgundy holds the map of the operation of that infamous day. A large bronze sculpture by Donald de Lue represents The Spirit of American Youth Rising. What is meant to be an uplifting, hopeful image of a young soldier reaching to the sky is filled with sadness when you think of the young men that gave their life for the greater good on that day.

These photos are my grandfathers, taken on what was a very emotional day for him. I asked my grandmother years ago what she remembered of that day and she said my grandpa walked alone taking photos and shedding a tear for the many that had been lost. However, he felt it was important to be there and to see the final resting place of so many.

Tiber et Napoléon dans le Louvre

In 1972 the large allegory of the Tiber River brought to France by Napoleon once sat in the Cour du Sphinx where it was when my grandfather snapped this photo. It has since been moved to the end of the apartments of the queen mother Anne of Austria with the Seine flowing at his back.

Tiber dates back to the 1st century and was discovered in Rome in 1512 with its mirrored stature of the Nile. Moved to the papal collection in Rome following the discovery until Napoleon made his own discovery and wanted the two statues taken back to France.

In 1797 the Treaty of Tolentino, an agreement between the Papal State and the French Republic, the statues were transferred to the Musée Napoleon, what is now known as the Musée du Louvre. Following the defeat and removal of Napoleon in 1815, the Nile was returned to the Vatican, but Tiber was given as a gift from Pope Pius VII to the now King Louis XVIII and has remained in the Louvre until today.

The statue depicts the allegory of the Tiber holding an oar for navigation and in his right hand a cornucopia which symbolizes the nourishing of the river. Just below him on the left are the twins Romulus and Remus shown being breastfed by a she wolf, the symbol of the city of Rome. One of the most beautiful things of Paris is that all though years can pass, there are things that remain the same.

The building, bridges and art can span years and centuries but the people like the river keeps flowing and passing with time. I love the little gal in the lower left with her stripe shirt looking up at a statue. Maybe at this moment she fell in love with art. Also apparently the Louvre had a little more liberal rule of touching the statues with a guard in his snazzy uniform looking on.

Currently this entire area is closed off and under renovation, although they haven’t started as I peek through the door everyday to see if they are working.

Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel

Have you ever wondered why the area in front of the Musée du Louvre and the smaller Arc is called Carrousel? Well, here I am to fill you in on that fun little Paris fact.

360 years ago on June 5, 1662 Louis XIV held a giant party after he heard the news that his wife, Maria Theresa was with child. The future dauphin, Louis would be born in November, but we are getting ahead of ourselves.

Louis XIV was not shy about throwing grand fetes, many of which would be at Versailles, but this party would take place in the Tuileries. Multiple groups of riders, dressed head to toe in velvet, feathers and silk mounted their horses and chased each other performing drills and looping there lances in hoops and tossing balls from one to another.

This was at the time called a Carrousel, and from that day forward it was called Place de Carrousel. IN 1682, the Sun King would pack up the palace and take his court to Versailles leaving the Palais du Louvre behind, never to return.

The merry-go-round as we know it today is based on the carrousel of the 17th century. Originally it was for adults and over time it changed into a ride for children. Today you can find the original Paris carrousel in the Jardin du Luxembourg, designed by Charles Garnier of the Opera house fame. Sadly it doesn’t have the same golden grandeur of the opera but historic none the less.

Napoleon would keep the name in 1806 when he ordered the Arc de Triomphe Carrousel built to commemorate his recent victories. There was a short period when it was also the site of a guillotine during the Terror, but its best to think of fancy horses prancing around. Sadly, the Dauphin would die before his father and never take the throne. However, we still have the memory of that day left sitting on the Grand Axis of Paris.

A year with cancer

This week's newsletter came out a few days late. I wanted to mark a significant occasion that hit my life a year ago today.

Sometimes I have moments when I just start to cry out of nowhere. Not because I have cancer but because I think of how relieved I am in the place I am, a year later. 

It was February 24, 2021 that I woke up and my eyes were so blurry I could barely see anything. In a panic I called the doctor who sent me to the eye clinic who couldn’t really help. For two weeks to the day,  I woke up every day to it being either a bit better or a bit worse, there wasn’t a rhyme or reason to it until March 10. 

That day I went to put out the green recycling bin and in pulling and turning I hurt my back. In the next few hours an immense and painful hematoma appeared. It went from my shoulder blade to my waist and was 3 inches across and was 2 inches deep and hard as a rock. Calling the doctor they said I just pulled it and prescribed a muscle relaxer. 

For eight days it got worse and worse. I couldn’t walk more than 4 steps without having to stop to catch my breath. I couldn't sleep, every position was horrible. I could barely eat, just chewing and swallowing cut off my breath.  Everyday I called the doctor's office multiple times and each time was told it wasn’t too serious. It was during Covid and having a hard time breathing was a big deal, but didn’t seem urgent to them. 

Finally I said “someone needs to physically look at me”. I would lay in bed and for 2 hours try to psyche myself up to walk to the kitchen. It was a task that would take 20 minutes with constant stops along the wall or to sit down. 

Early in the morning on March 18, my mom and sister took me to urgent care. Within minutes the doctor told me I needed to go to the emergency room. After many tests and a few hours an ER doctor rolled in a huge laptop and showed me xrays of my spleen and liver that were 4 times larger than they should be. It was at that moment around Noon on March 28, 2021  that he turned to me and said “we believe you have a form of blood cancer”. 

I don’t think you can ever prepare yourself for that moment. How you will react or how you even can absorb it. I had felt so horrible for eight days that all I could think at that moment was that I just wanted to feel better. 

When I arrived at the hospital and they wheeled me in on a stretcher I can remember clearly the moment when the paramedic gave them my name and said I was going to Oncology. Oncology, for cancer patients, how is this happening? 

The next 24 hours included an ambulance ride, a bone marrow biopsy, a blood transfusion, MRI and ultrasound to check for blood clots.  A normal person has a white blood count around 12,000. Mine was 577,000, to what my doctor said was the highest he had ever seen by more than 200,000. My blood was as thick as peanut butter, which is why I couldn’t see, which at this point was so bad everything was just a big blurry blob. 

Through a series of chemotherapy tablets over a week it dramatically came down and each morning I waited for the results of the 3am blood test anxious to get down to 100,000, the marker of when I was allowed to leave the hospital. It took 12 days and I had never been so happy to get out of a place. Many of the nurses were so kind and I still think of two ladies that were there from that first night I arrived, scared to death.

When the doctor came in after being there for 5 long days waiting for the results and told me it was confirmed, I had a form of Leukemia called CML, Chronic Myeloid Leukemia. It was the best news you could hope for in terms of Leukemia and it was then after 2 weeks of pain and being scared to death that I finally cried.  Laying in the hospital alone you think of every worse case scenario. What if I need a bone marrow transplant, what if I have to have a difficult treatment like radiation or chemotherapy, what if I die before I can get back to Paris. 

The doctor said to me “if there was a cancer to have, this is it”. Twenty years ago an amazing doctor, Dr Druker, just a few miles from me created the life saving drug that goes after the two chromosomes that cause CML. Before that date, I would have most likely been dead today instead of celebrating one year of living with it. 

It is now one year later. And everyday since February 24, 2022 I think of where I was a year ago. When I walk into the kitchen and back to my office in just a few seconds I remember when just the thought of taking a few steps seemed impossible. It seems like yesterday and at the same time forever ago. 

While the thought that you have cancer is never far from your mind, there are some strange side effects that come with it. You have a new feeling for life when you are told you were just a few days from death and faced your own mortality. Life is short and don't wait to follow your heart or your dreams. 

The goal that got me through the two weeks in the hospital

There is never a time I blow my nose that I am not scared for a half a second that I will find blood. Never a moment that I feel “off” that I don’t think it will lead to something worse. There is never a moment that I run into something and know it will lead to a bruise, that I am not worried it will turn into a giant hematoma. 

Many people that have cancer or are dealing with anything honestly might appear just fine on the outside but know that on the inside you never forget what you have had to go through or what you are fighting. It is far easier to put on a happy face and present that you are fine, but it is never more  than a second away from your thoughts and becomes a very lonely thing to live with.  For all the survivors out there and those living with cancer or really any difficult disease, don’t forget to check in with them every once in a while. 

Today, one year later my blood numbers are all in the normal range and my wonderful doctor just yesterday said we are 6 months ahead of where he wanted me to be at the one year mark. It will be years before we can think of reducing or stopping the medication but every day we get a little closer. 

Thank you to everyone this last year for all the support and not just because of a disease like cancer. Thank you for your likes, your comments and your mutual love of history and Paris. 

Solo Travel to Paris for Women

Every week I get a few ladies that message me asking for advice about traveling alone to Paris. Of course, going to another country and continent for that matter could be scary, but fear not travelers. Over the last two years we have survived the need to travel is even greater. I am here to tell you if you want to go, GO!

Paris is one of the easiest cities to visit alone and I have done it for years now. It is easy to navigate, safe and there are plenty of things to do. When I am in Paris I spend much of my time researching French history, giving tours, strolling through museums, and spending hours sitting on a terrace enjoying a glass or four of French wine. However, the beauty of Paris is that you can make it all on your own and do anything you want.

My first trip to Paris, was many years ago when a friend used her air miles to get me a ticket, and months later, I arrived to visit the city I loved so much before I ever set foot in it. It was to be a short six-day trip and then onto Florence where my friend lived. After two days, she said to me one hot and muggy day, “I think you should go back to Paris”. The thought of turning around by myself and heading back to Paris at first sounded pretty scary, but after a lovely lunch and lots of wine, it sounded better and better. A ticket was purchased, the hotel secured, and I was back on a plane heading straight to Paris the next day.

Arriving at Orly, luggage in hand, I went off to grab a taxi. Well, so I thought. Following the taxi signs, I was approached by a man asking if I needed a taxi, well how easy can this be, Oui Oui! As we walked towards the cars, we stopped at a motorcycle. With my large luggage in tow, wondering how this was going to happen and picturing myself dying on the way into the city of love, I told myself that I could do this. Strapping my suitcase and myself in and gripping for my life it was onto Paris. If you have been in a car on a Paris highway you will recall seeing the motorcycles zipping in-between cars, well this guy wasn’t any different.

Halfway through the trip, my sweaty hands loosened their grip and before I knew it, we were flying by the Jardin du Luxembourg and Place Saint Michel. I wanted to let go and open my arms and embrace being back in Paris, but let’s not get too crazy. It took under 30 minutes during rush hour to get to my hotel, cost about twice as much as it should have but for the 75 euros I bought a sense of freedom I didn’t even know I had, and that is priceless. I was standing on the Pont des Arts as sunset fell and knew I was exactly where I should be.

When you travel on your own, the whole day and city is open to you. If you want to spend four hours in the Cour Puget of the Musée du Louvre, you can. Perhaps walking aimlessly through the streets on an early Sunday morning stopping along the way at a café for that perfect croissant is more on your agenda, you can do that as well. Your time is yours to do with as you would like, so soak it all in.

There are a few things to keep in mind when you plan that seule voyage. Location and safety are the biggest but don’t let any of that scare you. For myself, I stay fairly central on the left or right bank which is a lovely walk to the museums where I spend a lot of my time. Saint Germain is a bustling area at all hours of the day and late into the evening and walking late into the night is never a problem. As a solo woman traveling, I recommend staying in Saint Germain, the Marais, Opera, and Latin Quarter areas especially if you will be walking at night. I have never had a moment that I did not feel safe walking in Paris, even if it was the wee hours of the morning. Be aware of your surroundings and your belongings at all times and walk with confidence and you won’t have any problems.  

One of the greatest pleasures in Paris is the delicious food, and traveling alone should not stop you from enjoying every single morsel. One of the advantages is that you are able to meet some wonderful people and a restaurant is a perfect place to make some wonderful connections. It is not uncommon to see many people eating alone day and night reading a book or channeling their inner Hemingway and writing away. Lunch is a great way to enjoy some of the best restaurants in Paris and save a little money as well. Inside the café may be a bit intimidating and if that’s the case, grab one of the iconic Paris café chairs on the terrace and as a bonus, it comes complete with a live show as people pass by you. The Parisian terrace is the solo traveler’s best friend and the close seats can lead to wonderful conversations.

There is nothing stopping you as the solo female traveler in Paris, however, if you have a day when you want to meet other people there are some great ways to do it. A walking tour is a fantastic option to connect with fellow travelers. There are many offered all over Paris and can be found online, and simply pick a theme that interests you and join in the fun. You will spend a few hours with people that share the same curiosities as you and many including my own ends with a drink at a café where you can really connect with others over a glass of Champagne. Speaking of wine, another great place is at many of the local wine bars. A more relaxed and fun environment than the terrace cafes, the standup wine bars turn into a party later in the night, and its impossible not to have a great time. The Odeon treasure by Yves Camdeborde, L’Avant Comptoir de la Terre where any given night can turn into an Elton John sing a long while you dine on Brochette Foie Gras Piquillos and the Champagne never stops flowing. You are all friends by the end of that night.

If you want to go to enjoy all the beauty that is Paris, I hope you take all this as your permission to go do just that. Paris will feed your soul and mine finally came alive that first night I arrived by myself. Nothing should keep you from sitting in one of those green Luxembourg chairs, a great book in your hand as the hours tick away under the shade of the trees around the Fontaine Médicis. After all, we only live once and these moments should not be missed. Now when I think back to that motorcycle taxi ride from Orly and how scared I was at that moment and where it lead me to today as my arms are wrapped around a Frenchman and on the back of a motorcycle with a bottle of Champagne in my bag as we race to Champs de Mars. Well, I would not change a single thing.

If you are looking to travel solo to Paris and have any questions, feel free to reach out. Happy to inspire and push you to take the leap, you won’t regret it.

I specialize in planning trips to Paris for travelers that want to visit the city of their dreams. If it's there first visit or their tenth there are always new things to uncover. I can help set you up in preferred hotels or spot the best apartments on AirBnB and arm you with all the best tips and tricks to maximize every moment you have in Paris.

Things are changing everyday when it comes to travel and what is needed can be overwhelming as well as always finding incorrect information. I keep fully updated everyday and can take all the worry away while you just worry about how to pack all the shoes.

Contact me today and we will set up a call to plan your perfect visit to Paris. I can't wait to help you!

And if you will be there this fall, join me for a live tour and let me bring all these places to life for you. Including Hemingway the Paris years with moi, food and wine tour of Saint Germain, architecture of the Louvre and so many more let me know. Spaces are already filling up and I can’t wait to see you in Paris. Many different tours available and can also create one just for you.

A day in the Orsay

Getting into the Musée d’Orsay before it opens to the public is a dream, but spending an entire day when the crowds are low is even better. 

I have screamed from the rooftops the greatest benefit of being a member of the Musée d’Orsay. Each Carte Blanche member is able to visit each morning at 9:00 am, 30 minutes before the doors open to the public. For the price of 2 ½ visits you can become a member, so if you love the Impressionists and want to explore it even for a short period of time alone purchase the membership and enjoy a few quiet moments alone with the masters.  

Normally I arrive early and stand in the special little line to get inside at 9:00 and then I enjoy those perfect uninterrupted moments letting the art speak to me before the rooms are filled with people. Once the museum is buzzing with people I venture out and onto my next stop only to return again a few mornings later to do the same thing. 

I always have my trusty Moleskine notebook that I fill with notes, observations, inspirations and adding to my long list of things to research and share. The Orsay is constantly moving things so what was once on the wall Tuesday can suddenly be gone come Wednesday morning. It is the downside of really knowing a museum, especially if it is something that you love.

Recently I decided to spend an entire winter day in the Orsay and take advantage of the lack of visitors and to even enjoy the lovely restaurant that dates back to the original train station. 

On this day I decided to explore the rooms on the south side of the lowest level. Since the fall they had moved all of the paintings from the collection of Dr. Gachet, my favorite Manet paintings and the paintings that give us a  peek into the life of Degas. I recently shared the room in a video as well as the story of Dr Gachet, who is better known as the doctor to Vincent van Gogh but was also friends with many of the painters of the time. His large collection was given to the Orsay by his children that included van Gogh, Cézanne, Monet and Pissarro. 

Being able to stand in front of many of these paintings in total silence and without the distraction of shutters clicking or notifications on a dozen cell phones is a spiritual experience. Just stop and stand there and look, really LOOK. Think of the Manet standing at his easel in 1872 and looking at the dark haired beauty Berthe Morisot. Dressed all in black there is a small bunch of violets held within the button of her jacket. Manet was obsessed with the Spanish look and Berthe’s dark features he had to capture as soon as he met her in the salles of the Louvre where she and her sister Edme were training as copyists. It was the beginning of a long friendship that inspired each other and she would later marry his brother. 

I think of all these things as I stand there and look into her deep dark eyes. It is one of my favorite paintings and I always pay her a visit. 

When I say that I spend an entire day for most that could be enough to visit the entire museum. For me its a dozen or so rooms. As I take in every single detail and make notes and even stop to search for more info on the internet it can be an hour or two just in one small room with a dozen paintings. IT IS PURE AND TOTAL BLISS.  On this day as I moved down a long hall I can always see the guards keeping an eye on me. Many times the guards eventually walk up to me and ask what I am writing or just want to let me know that they rarely see someone really take time to look at the art. It usually leads to a long conversation, en francais, about the art or what I do and these chats always leave me with the biggest smile. 

The ability to share and talk with someone that also loves the art or even just appreciates it are the moments that always make me sad as I leave Paris. It is those moments that I can’t replicate when I am not there. I treasure each one of them, some of these have even led to a coffee date, but those are stories for another time.

On this January Tuesday I hadn’t planned to stay all day but it just happened. As I began to get a little hungry and wanted to sit and write the many things flying in my head I decided to dine in the beautiful restaurant in the Orsay with a view of the Seine and Eiffel Tower.  I have walked by it many times noticing the beautiful chandeliers and ceiling but always kept on my way. 

A restaurant has been in this spot since the train station first opened in 1900 and the beautiful painted ceilings survive from that period. It’s hard to decide where to look, out the window or up at the ceiling the entire time you enjoy the wonderful meal presented. Some of the entrees and plates on their own could add up but like many a great restaurant in Paris they have a formule dejeuner to choose from. For 27€ you can have either a entrée + plat or plat + dessert and the choices are fantastic. 

I had the Fin pâté de canard en croûte, pickles d’oignon et jus vinaigré  (crusted duck pate, onion pickles, vinaigrette) first, followed by the Travers de porc laqué, salad croquante et pomme Anna (lacquered pork ribs, crunchy salad, Anna potatoes). And it was all amazing! As I sat there with my glass of Les Plantagenêts Saumur from the Loire I looked out into the blue skies of Paris towards the Seine and thought about how perfect this truly was. 

The stunning high ceilings are crowned with the times of the day and four seasons by Gabriel Ferrier. The room is classified as a historical treasure and it’s bright airy golden touches are impossible not to fall in love with. Definitely stop for a lovely lunch or dinner on your next trip to the Orsay. 

Afterwards, it was shocking how quiet the museum was so I kept on exploring. This time to the upper galleries on the south side. Lining the open terrace are the sculptures of Albert Bartholomé, Bourdelle, Renoir, Camille Claudel and Maillol who will soon be a star of his own exhibition in the Orsay. In the side rooms you can find the Nabis and Henri Rousseau who I adore and a special small exhibit of contemporary art inspired by Beaudilare.   

Back to the main level where I left off before lunch and the amazing academie paintings with their almost translucent glowing skin steeped in mythology and even a Delacroix or two. Filling sixty or so pages of notes, happy as can be it was time to leave but of course there is always a stop in the Orsay bookshop. Somehow there is always someone or something new I just discovered and must see if they have a book on the subject, they get me every time. 

As the sun is setting I walk down the way to the terrace of La Frégate for a little hydration as well as a moment to reflect on everything I just saw. With the Orsay to my left and the Louvre straight in front of me it is sitting at the intersection of my heart and every moment spent there is amazing. 

For more about the Musée d’Orsay check out my YouTube for videos inside and outside of the Orsay and also the special episode of La Vie Creative - Paris History Avec a Hemingway we did in honor of it’s 35th birthday back in December.

Coming to Paris this spring and want a guided tour of the Orsay and learn all the stories behind the paintings and sculptures? Contact me today to schedule your tour, spots are filling up. All my tours are private and custom to exactly what you want to see.

Email me today at claudine@claudinehemingway.com for more info.

Fun Ways to Pick Up French

Parlez-vous francais?

 If you are brushing up on your French right now, biding time until you can be back to strolling those cobblestones or you want to start from scratch, here are a   few of my favorite ways to acquire the beautiful French language.

Learning a new language isn’t easy, it takes a lot of time and devotion if you want to venture past a Bonjour Madame when you arrive in Paris. However, that doesn’t mean it can’t be fun. I spend at least an hour each day watching, reading and writing in French and my weekly lessons with my tutor is one of my favorite things I do all week.  

Like many of us, we took French in high school, and maybe that was years ago. I remember in French class I couldn’t retain anything. It was frustrating and in the end I didn’t enjoy it. After the first few trips to Paris I decided I needed to take this a little more seriously then just the Duolingo app and looked for a tutor. The Duolingo app is a fun way to begin to acquire French and a great way to jump in, but be very leery of anything that promises you will be fluent in a few weeks. Sadly, it is not that easy. 

We all obtain information differently, what works for me, may not work for you, but these are my favorite ways to dive deep into learning French. If you are serious, I would suggest getting a tutor. Many cities have a local Alliance Francais that teaches group classes depending on your level. These classes can be quite spendy and depending on your availability hard to schedule around. I love the option of a one on one tutor, that way they are working directly with you and where you may be struggling.  

 When I began with my first tutor it was all about the basic structure of the language. Learning specific words and then the dreaded conjugated verbs. Once I had that down we went into stories and comprehension.  My former tutor, Alice Ayel, a wonderful French woman living in Portugal teaches French through what she calls the Natural Method. When we were little and we were learning to talk our parents didn’t give us a stack of flashcards and books and told us to memorize them. We learned by hearing our parents saying the same words over and over. The Natural Method is just like that. Through a series of stories, starting at the “baby stage” up to more advanced and working with a dry erase board she draws and acts out the words. It is amazing how quickly this method works.  Alice has a wonderful YouTube channel where you can watch any of her stories for free. She also has a newsletter and membership that includes special videos, stories and even books. Check out her website. 

While I have a pretty strict all French diet in just about everything I do, watching French movies and tv shows is another fantastic way to acquire French. A few French people have told me they learned english from watching Friends, and it can work the other way as well. Begin by watching French shows with english subtitles, eventually turning the subtitles to French. Better yet, if it is an American show you love and have watched every episode multiple times, turn on the French subtitles or even language if it is an option. Netflix has tons of great French shows. A favorite is Dix Pour Cent, or Call My Agent. 

Does listening to Edith Piaf or Charles Aznavour transport you to France? The same method  can apply to French music. Who doesn’t belt out the chorus of Joe Dassin’s Champs-Elysées, but do you know the rest of the song? Find the songs you love and look up the lyrics. Apple now has a wonderful feature in Apple music when you play a song, you can display the lyrics. On your phone, play a song and on the bottom left of the screen is a little square bubble. Once you select that the words scroll on your screen and you can sing along. This is a great way to learn and remember pronunciation. 

 In the morning I turn on the French news as I get ready, it helps train your ear but it is also a great comfort to me. You can stream many French news networks for free from your phone. France24 can be streamed live through YouTube, BFMTV has an app that you can also stream live for free. SlingTV has a French tv package you can pay for each month and you can get live French tv shows including an option to record them to watch later. It is also my favorite trick to be able to watch French football.

Comprehending French is much easier than speaking it. It takes many people years before they can feel comfortable jumping into conversations but don’t let that scare you off. Reading is another fantastic way to increase your French intake. I spend hours every day with one French book or another while I am researching and writing. If you find a word you are unsure of you can google or use a translation app. The trick is to find something you are already interested in. If it is a subject you love, you are more likely to retain it. There are a few fantastic French Reader books, complete with a glossary in the back of every word they use for every level. I have added a few in my boutique. 

The Statues of Notre Dame

On the night of April 15, 2019 as we watched the flames reach the sky from the roof of Notre Dame de Paris it was hard not to be heartbroken. The cathedral of Paris belonged to the entire world and there was a collective gasp as we watched and hoped it for the best. 

In an unbelievable stroke of luck just four days before the fire the statues of the roof were removed one by one. On April 11, 2019 the twelve apostles flew over the streets to head south for a bit of a freshening up. The plan was to return them two by two to Notre Dame to be placed on display before their return to their roof. The plans changed but we are very lucky they can now be seen up close, an opportunity that you don’t want to miss. 

In 1795, my hero Alexandre Le Noir jumped into action to save the monuments of France that were in the path of destruction by the Revolution. The tombs of the kings and queens in the Basilique Saint Denis would have been lost if not for Alexandre. The rescued monuments made their way to the Ecole des Beaux Arts and became the first Museum of French Monuments. It lasted until 1815 when the contents were returned to their rightful homes Emmanuel Viollet-Le-Duc, an architect that plays a major part in Notre Dame had a dream to recreate the museum and in 1879 it was revived and opened at the Trocadero. 

Filled with the casts of French churches and monuments it was the perfect home for the statues of Notre Dame until they can return to their peak over the Seine.

In 1842 Viollet-le-Duc and Baptiste Lassus were selected to rehabilitate the grand lady. HIs early plan included the addition of two spires on the roof. The former spire had been removed in 1797 for safety issues and an entire generation never knew the church with a spire. Coming off the renovation of Sainte Chapelle, Viollet-le-Duc wanted to add statues to the roof and tapped Adolphe Victor Geoffroy-Dechaume who he had worked with on Sainte Chapelle. 

Work began on the Apostles in 1848 and they were a bit more than meets the eye. The inner structure was created with iron and then covered with copper sheets making for a much lighter statue that could stand far above the streets. In the Périgeux offices of SOCRA the statues arrived and the work began. Many of the internal structures had to be partially replaced. Micro-sandblasting with apricot powder the outer layer of patina was removed. A dark bronze colored paint was added and coated with wax and after a month of work the statue was complete. 

There are 16 total statues, twelve  Apostles and four Evangelists and they can all be found in the rarely visited Cité de l’Architecture & Patrimoine. There are four different body types and Dechaume then made each unique with their head, hands and attributes. 

Saint Pierre (Peter), is of course holding a key as he is always depicted in almost every church you will ever enter. Waiting at the gates of heaven, the “Prince of the Apostles” is the first you'll also encounter as you walk in. Saint Pierre is the patron saint of clockmakers, locksmiths, foot problem and Las Vegas as well as a very long list of others. 

Saint Matthieu (Matthew) A former customs officer and tax collector that left to follow Jesus also wrote the first gospel. The open book he holds is a nod to that. Matthieu is the patron saif of accountants, Italy and perfume makers. 

Saint André (Andrew) The brother of Saint Pierre, he was a fisherman and one of the first disciples chosen. Sentenced to death by dying on the cross he asked that his cross be different from the one Jesus was crucified. A cross in the shape of an X was created and he magically attached to it instead of having to be nailed. Today he is the patron saint of fishermen, singers, pregnant women and Scotland which uses the cross of Saint Andrew as its flag. 

Saint Jude The same body as Saint Thomas he is without any attributes. 

Saint Simon In this statue he is holding a book, but is often seen holding a long saw that was the instrument of his death. 

Saint Bartholomew The first statue to be restored, he is holding a knife to signify his rather gruesome death. He had been skinned alive and beheaded and now is the patron saint of butchers and leather workers, which is a bit gruesome. On a lighter note he is also the patron saint of cheese and salt merchants. 

Saint Jacques Le Mineur (James the Younger) Holds a club that he was killed with, often depicted with stones that he was struck with. 

Saint Paul Once the persecutor of Christians he had a divine revelation and converted and became a preacher. Killed in 64AD with a sword that cut off his head, he now rests his hand on a sword and strokes his beard. 

Saint Jacques Le Majeur (James the Major) At the scene of many of the most important events he was one of the closest disciples of Jesus. He preached through Spain and was the first to be executed in 44AD. His names is given to the pilgrimage walk, the Compostela and can be seen with a walking stick. He also gives his name to scallops and is the patron saint of Spain, Seattle, pharmacists and oyster fishermen. 

Saint Jean (John) The youngest and beardless one is always easy to spot. One of the most loyal Apostles, he holds a cup that signifies his miracle of drinking poison and surviving. 

Saint Philippe Holds the cross from which he was killed and is the patron saint of pastry chefs and hat makers. 

At the base of each cardinal point leading to the spire is one of the four evangelists in the form of four living creatures. Each is in the same pose and has their heads turned towards the saints that look below. 

The Eagle of Saint Jean, the Angel of Saint Matthieu, the Lion of Saint Marc and the Ox of Saint Luc. 

The last saint you will find has a special added touch. Saint Thomas, the patron saint of architects, takes on the physical appearance of Viollet-le-Duc. Dechaume also added the architect's name to the ruler that he holds out from his right side as his left arm is raised. Unlike the other 11 statues of the Apostles, Saint Thomas turns to look up at his spire. 

I am relieved that he didn’t have to see his beloved spire burn on that early spring evening. 

Also on sight is the miracle rooster that once crowned the spire. As the fire ate away at the fleche, all I could think of was the rooster that held three precious relics. When the spire could no longer hold itself up it crashed into the transept of the church and the rooster was thought to have perished. The next day, architect Philippe Villeneuve was photographed holding the battered rooster with the relics still safely inside. 

Those precious relics include a piece of the Crown of Thorns. A relic of Saint Denis, the 3rd century patron saint of Paris that was beheaded and walked five miles holding his head. And a relic of Sainte Genevieve, the patron saint of Paris that saved the city numerous times during her life and many times in the 1600 years since her death.  I think she did it once more on April 15, 2019 saving the beloved Notre Dame from total destruction. 

Be sure to visit the Cité de l’Architecure & Patrimoine when you are next in Paris. Located at the Trocadero, just across from the Eiffel Tower it is open Wednesday - Monday 11am - 7pm and Thursday 11am - 9pm. 

However, don’t wait to explore, watch my video that shows you all these treasures of Notre Dame and more.

Visit my Boutique for a few of my favorite books on Notre Dame

More Gift Ideas for the Francophile

I had too many wonderful Christmas ideas to share with you so here are a few more time tested and wonderful treats. Give one to your favorite Francophile or just a special treat for yourself. 

One of my favorite restaurants in Paris is just a short walk from the Musée du Louvre and Palais Royal. Willi’s Wine Bar has been in Paris for over FORTY years, opening in 1980 it has been a staple of the first arrondissement and all those that have fallen in love with it.

Mark Williamson has put his heart and soul into making it a relaxed bistro with exceptional food and bringing one of the first wine bars to Paris. I have enjoyed Willi’s many times and it is a place I never miss and always pass on to travelers looking for a wonderful meal. The menu changes but you will no doubt find something delicious and don’t forget the wine. Mark and his staff curate the wine list with exceptional wines that may be new to you but ones you will always remember. 

In 1983, Willi’s began making a yearly poster with local artists that are inspired by wine and all the beauty that comes from a bottle. Past artists include one of my favorites Jean Charles de Castelbajac in 2005, Cathy Millet in 1986, Jacques de Loustal in 2004, Petronille in 2018 and MH Jeeves in 2016. You can purchase all of these wonderful posters at their website. 

Last yearMark released a book dedicated to the first 40 years of Wili’s. Immoveable Feast, 40 Years of Feeding the French covers the tales from the bar, recipes and many of the images from the posters. Mark graciously gave me a copy and it is fantastic! 

Janise Commentz has been painting all her life. Raised by an artist, she would pursue her love of art and share it with others. A high school teacher of art and English in the Mojave Desert and later Joshua Tree but always inspired by the romance of Paris. 

Janise now creates beautiful watercolors of many of the beautiful sights in Paris and I was so excited to be gifted one of her lovely calendars. January starts out with a dreamy watercolor of Boulevard Saint Germain, in my favorite area of Paris. Janise doesn’t just paint France she also has many other images of the desert as well as portraits. And for all of you that want to become an artist in your own right, check out her online classes. Oh how I wish I could paint like this. Check out all her great cards and calendar on her Etsy shop.

Désirée Marie Townley is a personal stylist and designer that during covid had to make a little detour as many of us did. As a master of scouring the markets of Rome she finds amazing pieces she curates and sells on her instagram, The Pewter Thimble. 

Originally from Oregon she went from a costume designer in the theater and opera to helping people find their own style. Désirée is the sweetest and has such a great eye for your next greatest treasure. 

Molly Wilkerson decided to leave Texas and head to Paris to go to culinary school in 2013. Enrolling in Le Cordon Bleu just like another American, Julia Child did many years before. A return to Texas but the never ending pull to Paris had her on a plane and heading back to the city of pastries. 

Sharing the love of pastries in an engaging and adorable way she gave classes around France and in her Versailles apartment until the pandemic hit. With a perfect pivot she brought all her wonderful classes straight into your kitchen anywhere in the world. Every month Molly gives lessons in sweets like Macarons and Bûche de Nöel and savory wonders like soupe à l'oignon. This year she also released a cookbook, French Pastry Made Simple which is a must for any aspiring baker. 

Out now is her list of classes for January that include Galette des Rois, just in time for the Epiphany and even a Croquembouche with all it’s wonderful choux puffs and pastry cream. Check out all her classes at mollyjwilk.com, perfect gift for your pastry loving friend.

Christmas ideas for the Francophile

Tis the season to be inundated with “gifts for the Francophiles” in your life. Instead of recommending crazy over priced items I want to share with you a few of my favorite things from really wonderful people. You may even decide you need one or two for yourself. 

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac has been a designer and artist for over five decades. His colorful creations have dressed the runways and stages by the biggest stars but it is his sweet little chalk angels he leaves all over Paris that  I love so much. This Fall and Winter the Centre de Pompidou is holding a special interactive exhibit for children, but big kids can check it out too. Although they thought it was a bit odd when I walked in and the guy let me know it was kids. I just said, oui, mais j’adore JCDC.  The event runs until May 9, 2022. 

When I saw that he put together a book of his lively colored designs and angels I had to have it. It’s not an inexpensive book, that's when my discount at the Louvre bookstore comes in handy. You can find it on Amazon on the US or French site, its less expensive on the French site even with the conversion. For a less expensive version check out the color and activity book, now I wish I also got that one.  And when in Paris always keep an eye out for an angel left behind for a loved one. 

John Baxter has spent his life sharing the stories of Paris and the biographies of the most interesting people. His newest book is out now and dedicated to actor of the Silver Screen, Charles Boyer. Charles Boyer, The French Lover is the story of the suave actor known for his wonderful voice and amazing roles. I loved him as the eccentric neighbor living in the attic about Robert Redford and Jane Fonda in Barefoot in the Park and also as the host of a wonderful 1964 documentary on the Louvre.  John’s books are the best and are the perfect gift for the film lover or reader in your life.

The perfect gift for anyone that has ever been to Paris or just dreamed about going is a lovely sketch of your favorite restaurant in Paris. Former New Yorker editor John Donohue found he loved spending his days capturing the facades of the restaurants of New York, London and Paris and chased his dream to do just that.  

Each sketch is done in under 30 minutes and include many of the best places in Paris. Check to see if yours is included. Had the best hot chocolate of your life at Angelina? A wonderful meal on your first trip at Le Grand Colbert or L’Ami Jean. However, I think you all know which one I need and maybe even one as a gift to the L’Avant Comptoir as well.

Check out his entire collection here and pick up one for yourself at the same time. 

I have to admit, I always thought it was a bit ridiculous to spend money on an expensive candle. Well, that all changed when I saw a special Diptyque candle created with artist Jean-Michel Othoniel and how it’s tied to the Musée du Louvre. 

In celebration of the 30th anniversary of I.M. Pei’s Pyramid the Louvre asked Othoniel to create a new version of his book, Herbier Merveilleux, the Secret Language of Flowers. More than 5000 works of art in the Louvre include flowers, so he needed to narrow it down. One piece stood out to him above many and from that he also created six paintings. 

Peter Paul Rubens captured the moment of the marriage of Marie de Medici to Henri IV by proxy as we just talked about the other day. At the base of their feet laying on the step is one single red rose. With the vastness of the room that is the Medici Gallery it is this one rose that stands out. Othoniel believes it is the symbol of the entire museum, the image of passion and power. For what is more delicate and strong than a rose? 

Diptyque has been making candles since 1961 and still operates it’s original store at 34 Boulevard Saint Germain. Each year they develop special edition candles that fill your room with deep and beautiful scents. They also make perfume, room sprays and more. Now I can’t wait to go visit the flagship store and know I am now on a slippery slope of fancy French candles. I love each afternoon when I light it for an hour and am reminded of the paintings Othoniel left in the Cour Puget. Find the special candle and more here. 

They will ship from their US location and have a few stores around the country as well.

On the carrefour de l’Odéon just steps away from the best wine bar in Paris is the Zoé Ferdinand boutique. Filled with distinct pieces you can take home to mark your trip to Paris and also a collection of great shirts based on some of the best books ever written. I could be a bit biased about that but, c’est la vie. One day I was walking by the lovely facade of the store covered with flowers in the window when I spotted a great t-shirt and HAD to have it.  

We know the great Hemingway book published after his death as A Moveable Feast, documenting those early years in Paris and the friends that filled it, it is a must for any Francophile. However in France the book is known under the title “Paris est une fête”. So spying this treasure in the window I had to grab it. 

Since then Zoé has added candles, sweatshirts, necklaces and even some undies. Check out her entire collection online and when you are in Paris stop by before you pop into L’Avant Comptoir de la Terre.