As we begin to settle into the long dark days of autumn and winter and dream of the days filled with cherry blossoms, it is a great time to pull out the cookbooks. Of course I mean the French cookbooks. Nothing sounds better on a cold dark night then a hot bowl of Boeuf Bourguignon as authentic as you can get paired with some French wine and a crispy baguette, bien sur.
There are a lot of French cookbooks out there but I wanted to share some of my favorite time tested and a few of my favorite recipes. From Julia Child to François-Régis Gaudry.
You can never have a list of French cookbooks without mentioning the queen, Julia Child. Her entire catalog of French cookbooks are great but there is only one Mastering the Art of French Cooking, ok we can say two since there are two volumes. Julia is my go to every time I make Boeuf Bourguignon, quiche and they always turn out delicious.
Ina Garten’s Barefoot in Paris is filled with the classics and a few adaptations. Who doesn’t want to transport themselves into her idyllic life with her charming husband Jeffrey and their beautiful apartment in Paris. The Provencal Vegetable Tian is easy, tasty and a show stopper on any table. I have been making this for years and it’s so delicious, come to think of it, I need to make that this week. Other favorites include the Gougères, those perfect little puffs of cheesy goodness. Pissaladière, the delicious combination of caramelized onions, Niçoise olives and anchovies, perfect with a glass of rosé any time of the year.
Long before Anthony Bourdain opened up the world for us, he was a chef at the French restaurant Les Halles in New York City. In 2004 he wrote Les Halles Cookbook about many of the classic French dishes with a small twist. Each recipe is written in his voice, which I adored when I first bought over fifteen years ago and love even more now that he is gone. Bourdain’s recipe for escargot is my go to every time, it’s a pretty easy thing to make but you must read what he wrote about them, classic Bourdain. Soupe à l'oignon, salade Niçoise and steak tartare can help fill that void in your heart and stomach while away from Paris.
Dorie Greenspan normally spends her time writing lovely baking books, but back in 2010 she published Around My French Table. Living in Paris and very close to my beloved L’Avant Comptoir I ran into one day while having lunch. I got the nerve up to say hello and tell her how much I loved this specific cookbook. She was as lovely and gracious as one would imagine. Every page of this book is a highlight but a few of my favorites include Gérard’s Mustard Tart, Moules Marinière, Skate with Capers, because everything is better with capers and how about some Speculoos to transport you to a terrace with your afternoon café.
The Country Cooking of France by Anne Willan is a beautiful book that could also be left on your coffee table. Anne captures all of the specialties from every corner of France. When I was doing the Tour de French Cuisine many years ago her book was always nearby. Not only does it have beautiful recipes but it is also filled with stories on the regions, chefs and history of many of the dishes. If you had to choose one book about classic regional French cooking, this is the one.
Délicieux, the Recipes of France by Gabriel Gaté. In this book Gabriel also showcases many of the dishes of France. I love how for each recipe he also included where the dish was originally from and in French. Canard grillé, pommes de terre sautées, salade frisée from the Languedoc region is divine. Poulet de Bresse aux morilles and for the perfect winter treat, Fondue les Alpages. All of his books are fantastic and beautifully compiled and can be found in French and English.
Another baker we all love David Lebovitz also turned to writing a book about the classic French dishes in My Paris Kitchen. Poulet à la Moutarde, Gratin de Pommes de Terre au Bleu et à l’Ail Confit and when I need to pretend I am back at l’Avant the Salt Cod Fritters take me right back to the zinc bar. And for dessert lovers, have no fear, because it is David and he loves desserts, the Tarte au Chocolat et Confiture de Lait is perfection.
One last goodie is François-Régis Gaudry and Friends is Let’s Eat France!. This is the kind of cookbook you can curl up in bed with. Not only does it have great recipes it also has cocktails, everything you want to know about French wine, and the great chefs of France, and that is just the start. Even my favorite Yves Camdeborde contributed. Nothing is missed in this amazing book, a must for any Francophile.
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