The Palais Royal was a place I discovered on my first trip to Paris. I was staying on the Rue de Richelieu and one warm fall afternoon I walked through a short passage and found a lovely little oasis in the center of Paris.
The Palais Royal was once known as the Palais Cardinal and built by the powerful Cardinal Richelieu. Richelieu loved to collect art and needed a large space to show it off. Purchasing the Hotel de Rambouillet just across from the Louvre in 1624 he would have it torn down and his own Palais Cardinal built. It was the ideal location keeping him close to the court of Louis XIII in the Palais du Louvre. Architect Jacques Lemercier designed the palace that would include a gallery for the Cardinal’s statues and lavish rooms fit for the very wealthy Richelieu.
Completed just 3 years before his death, it would pass into the hands of the king as stated in his will. Louis XIII died a year after and the young Louis XIV and mother Anne d’Autriche moved in and changed the name to the Palais Royal. On April 6, 1673 a fire destroyed most of the Palais; only the Galerie des Proues on the eastern side of the black and white colonnes de Buren remained.
Philippe Égalité created the garden and galleries that run around the entire center and would become the place to be. Parisian society would stroll through the colonnade and frequent the gambling halls. And with the gambling came the oldest profession in the world. It was the ladies of the night that ruled the area, occupying the upper floors in maisons closes, mingling through the arches looking for their willing prey. Today it is the perfect spot in the middle of the busy city to catch your breath.
Dating back to 1784 it is one of the oldest restaurants in Paris, and layered in history. Napoleon proposed to Josephine here (he also lost his virginity in this Palais) and the plaques marking the seats reserved for them. Many notable Parisians could be found here and the seats are still marked with their names, Victor Hugo, Jean-Paul Sartre, George Sand and Honoré de Balzac. Another red banquette holds the name of the French author that lived in the Palais just above the restaurant. Julia Child and her husband Paul would dine here and "first laid eyes on the Grande Dame Colette" where she would be carried through the restaurant to her saved corner seat and would "avoid our eyes but observe what was on every plate”.
On my first visit to Paris, a trip to this historic restaurant was at the top of my list. The day I walked in and was greeted by the famed chef Guy Martin and was taken through the restaurant I gasped as I took my seat and looked at the brass plaque, it had just one name, Colette. Colette, the famed French author that was forced to write under her husband's name Willy for years. Her most famous works were Gigi and a series of books, aptly titled the Claudine series, including Claudine in Paris. At a very early age Colette helped me love my name that was and still is so different from anyone else.
Julia Child's book My Life in France is one of my favorites and it's amazing how these stories are all intertwined and a part of my life. I don't think there is a better way to capture how I feel about Paris than how Julia wrote about it. From the sheer joy she had eating her first meal in France of Sole Meunière and the absolute perfection that it was and the happiness she had in that simple moment. Julia’s book is also our La Vie Creative book club book of the month, I’m sure you will love it and Julia as much as I do.
Another favorite restaurant near the Palais Royal is WIlli’s Wine Bar. Willi’s Wine Bar has been in Paris for over FORTY years, opening in 1980 it has been a staple of the first arrondissement and all those that have fallen in love with it.
Mark Williamson has put his heart and soul into making it a relaxed bistro with exceptional food and bringing one of the first wine bars to Paris. I have enjoyed Willi’s many times and it is a place I never miss and always pass on to travelers and clients looking for a wonderful meal. The menu changes seasonally but you will no doubt find something delicious and don’t forget the wine. Mark and his staff curate the wine list with exceptional wines that may be new to you but ones you will always remember.
In 1983, Willi’s began making a yearly poster with local artists that are inspired by wine and all the beauty that comes from a bottle. Past artists include one of my favorites Jean Charles de Castelbajac in 2005, Cathy Millet in 1986, Jacques de Loustal in 2004, Petronille in 2018 and MH Jeeves in 2016. You can purchase all of these wonderful posters at their website.
A few years back Mark released a book dedicated to the first 40 years of Wili’s. Immoveable Feast, 40 Years of Feeding the French covers the tales from the bar, recipes and many of the images from the posters. Mark graciously gave me a copy and it is fantastic.
On a recent visit I had the fantastic Tartarre de Haddock Fumé Maison, Avocat en Guacamole and it was delicious. So fresh and flavorful and paired with a favorite Vouvray Sec. For an entree the Rôti de Cabillaud aux Citrons, Câpres et Croutons, the Cabillaud proportion changes seasonally and is always cooked to perfection.
Just steps away from the Musée du Louvre and also one of my favorite cafés, Le Nemours you will find this beautiful Metro entrance. Sitting many mornings having a café crème and the best petit dejeuner in the city before I spend a day in the Louvre, it is always a topic of conversation from many tourists. Located in the Place Colette, named for the famed French writer that lived the last years of her life at the Palais Royale. In 1966 her daughter requested the Minister of Culture that the place be named for her mother near a place she loved so dearly.
The metro stop kiosk dates back to 2000 and was created for the millennium by artist Jean-Michel Othoniel. Kiosque des Noctambules, (kiosk of the night owls) is created by colorful Murano glass beads in shades of blue, purple, yellow, and red. Constructed of six columns and two separate “domes” that are each topped with a glass figure. Its two separate themed arches, the cool tones of blue, purple, yellow and clear meaning night and the warm colors red, yellow and clear signifying the day. A little clue to the one time life of nearby Palais Royale long before.