The hill of Montmartre has had many lives. One of the most famous was when it was the home of the artists that climbed the winding cobblestoned streets. The Bateau-Lavoir is one of the mythical places that many of the artists ateliers of the early 1900’s hid behind its facade.
The former piano factory and ballroom was divided in 1889 into twenty small studios. Devoid of running water or heat they were pieced together with boards and wooden walkways that on a windy stormy day it creaked and rocked like a boat on the Seine. Poet Max Jacobs coined the term Bateau Lavoir for those stormy days. Picasso moved in for just 15 francs a month in 1903 after the death of Carlos Casagemas. It was here that he painted his blue & rose period.
Besides being the home and studios of so many artists, the Bateau-Lavoir was also the site of an event that launched the recognition of Henri Rousseau. In 1908, Picasso held a party for the almost unknown painter. Having discovered Rousseau when he came upon a street merchant selling his paintings. Not to be used as art, but to be used for the canvas to be painted over. Fascinated by the painter, Picasso searched him out in hopes of meeting him. Henri Julien Félix Rousseau discovered painting much later in life. Nicknamed Le Douanier, for his job as a toll and tax collector, painting in his spare time in his early forties. In 1893 at the age of 49, he quit his job to paint full time. In the post-impressionist period Rousseau was known as a Primitive and Naïve painter.
Self-taught, Rousseau would gather attention; most of it was not very great. In 1886, he took part in the Salon des Indépendants alongside Matisse, where his painting drew the attention of Félix Vallotton. "His tiger surprising its prey ought not to be missed; it's the alpha and omega of painting." Many of his paintings are of nature, portraits of people and a few buildings that were a reflection of his earlier life. Picasso threw a banquet for Rousseau in the ramshackle Bateau-Lavoir; he invited most of the Paris artistic community. Many thought the party was a bit of a joke, Rousseau really wasn’t taken that seriously as a painter, even after more than 20 years.
With Gertrude and Leo Stein, Apollinaire, Max Jacob and André Salmon in attendance it was “one of the most notable social events of the twentieth century”. It was half-serious and half-burlesque, with only rice to eat for the guests, but plenty of wine. The banquet would touch Rousseau and give him a bit more prestige in Paris. He would die less than two years later. On his tombstone Apollinaire would write “that you may spend your sacred leisure in the light and Truth of Painting”. His paintings stand out in the Musee de l’Orangerie, in a small room on the lower level. They are fascinating in their naïve way, and his use of color draws you in.
The Bateau-Lavoir sits on the Place Émile-Goudeau, named for the poet and journalist who founded the Hydropathes Society that helped market the writers and poets of Paris. It was at this spot that Napoleon also tied up his horse (or someone most likely did for him) as he headed to the top of the hill.
A few steps away is the start of Rue d’Orchampt, a short elbow bend of a street that was the atelier of Renoir and where he painted a few of his most notable works. In his trio of dance paintings, Dance in the City, Country and Bougival he intended to feature model and future artist Suzanne Valadon. However, Renoir’s partner Aline Charigot was a little tired of the lovely lady that took up all of his time and one day entered the studio and attacked the Country painting. Renoir was forced to redo it and use Aline as his model. Happy lover, happy life. More on Suzanne who was the subject of our first episode.
At the bend in the street, the corner is crowned with a lovely white home that once belonged to the International superstar Dalida. The Egyptian Italian beauty was born in 1933 and arrived in Paris in 1954 inspired by Rita Hayworth in Gilda. Purchasing the property in 1962, she lived in her home in her beloved Montmartre until May 3, 1987 when she took her own life. For more on Dalida check out the episode we did about her.
The Moulin de la Galette sits at the corner of Rue Lepic and dates back to the 17th century when the sides of Montmartre were dotted with windmills. In 1809 the Debra family began making a brown bread known as a galette, giving the landmark its name. The artists began to gather and filled the back courtyard as depicted in Renoir’s Bal du Moulin de la Galette.
Place Jean-Baptiste-Clément dates back to 1905 and is named for French singer, lyricists and journalist who was rather outspoken against Napoleon III which would end with him being tossed into Prison. Upon his release he was elected to the Council of Commerce and fought in the Bloody Week until he had to flee France where he was sentenced to death. Pardoned in 1880 he returned to Paris and led the socialist organization until he died in 1903. The Place was named for him in 1905.
Just across the street is an oddly shaped building. La Commanderie du Clos Montmartre was a former water tower and reservoir built in 1835 replacing a hunting lodge of Catherine de Medici. The Neoclassical structure was designed by Titeux de Frosny and once pumped up water from the Seine in Saint Ouen to serve the area. The water pump was decommissioned in 1927 and the octagonal shaped building later became the office of the Commanderie du Clos Montmartre, the same organization that oversees the vineyard of Montmartre.
At 22 rue Norvins, La Folie Sandrin was built by Antoine Sandrin in 1774 and christened it the Palais Bellevue. Sandrin had made his fortune making candles and candlesticks and wanted a property that would cover the side of the hill. Sold in 1795 to a wine merchant that passed it on in 1806 to Doctor Prost who purchased it to turn it into an asylum. Proust treated the many artists of the hill and for those who couldn’t afford his service he took care of them for free. In 1875 Emilie de Lavalettte, niece of Josephine purchased it to create a home for maidens and in 1950 it was a school for girls. Today it has been turned into apartments although some are convinced it's haunted.
It is hard to find a corner of Montmartre that you haven't seen in a movie or in the picture books of Paris. The cafe, Le Consulat is just such a facade, having Sacre Coeur towering behind helps as well to the dreamy image. The Consulat dates back to the 19th century but its neighbor La Bonne Franquette goes back to the 16th century. Rebuilt after the 1559 fire devastated most of Montmartre, the restaurant once had a small inn on the 1st floor and every artist you can name once hung out here. Van Gogh even captured it on the canvas and it can be seen in the Musée d’Orsay.
Place du Tertre is as iconic as it gets on Montmartre and where you can still find the artists today. Artists have resided here since 1635 and there is currently a 10 year waiting list for one of the coveted spots. Three hundred artists share the 100 spots today. Some are stationed in the center and others roam through the streets. Each “spot” is shared by three artists and they rotate the days of the week they are here, but someone has to be there every single day, rain or shine. It costs 550€ a year split three ways. Many people, including my grandparents have purchased art here to bring home to remember their lovely time they had in Paris.
On the Place in 1814 at La Mere Catherine during the Battle of Paris, Russian Cossak officers wanted their service to be a bit faster. They yelled out “Bystro, Bystro” which is Russian for quick and the legend of the “Bistro” was born. Now you know for a quick bite you should visit a Bistro.
In the shadows of Sacre Coeur is the lovely little Église Saint Pierre de Montmartre. A church has been here since the 11th century and before that it was on the route of Saint Denis as he walked over the hill holding his head. In 1470 the church was restored and lasted until the fire of 1559. Portions of the church were destroyed and had to be rebuilt, the facade was updated in the 17th century and what we still see today.
The doors of the church are stunning and were added in 1980. Italian artist Tommaso Gismondi designed the three doors that tell from left to right the story of Saint Denis, Saint Pierre in the center and Notre Dame, Our Lady on the right. On May 26, 1980, Pope John-Paul blessed the doors on a visit to Paris. Just inside the church on the left and right are four white marble columns and capitals that date all the way back to the 7th century!
Next to the church is the Calvaire Cemetery where the oldest tomb was placed in 1688 and the second oldest cemetery in Paris. During the Revolution it was mostly destroyed but thankfully restored in 1801. The second smallest cemetery in Paris is open just one day of the year, November 1, All Saints Day. Of the 85 tombs you can find the members of the Debray family and also artist Jean-Baptiste Pigalle.
Head down towards the Paris skyline and turn into the small Square Nadar where you will see a statue of La Barre. Francois-Jean de la Barre was a young man who was accused of vandalizing a cross in 1765 on the bridge of Abbeville. It shocked the city and they wanted to find the culprit who would do such a thing. Barre and his two friends were also accused of disrespecting the church during the procession of Corpus Christi. He didn’t remove his hat and was also singing loudly as he passed and it was one step too far. On July 1, 1766 he was tortured, beheded and burned at the stake and his ashes were tossed into the Somme.
The great Voltaire tried to defend him in his writings to no avail. Barre was just 19 years old but 28 years later he was pardoned and became the poster boy for free space. In 1906 the city of Paris decided to create a statue of the young man and placed it in front of the steps of Sacre Coeur. In 1926 the statue and base was moved to its current spot but the bronze monument would not survive WWII and the Vichy government. In 2001 the Paris city council commissioned a new statue, designed by Emmanuel Bull and added to the same base the original stood on.
Listen to the newest episode out now, and take us with you when you visit Paris and Montmartre and take your own little walk.